Destination Ariege
By Louise Chandler (IML)
Accessible, quiet and stunning
The Ariege is a department of France sitting on the edge of the Pyrenees in the south west. It borders Spain, Andorra ,the Aude, Haute Garonne and the Pyrenees Oriental. And now, it is part of the new super region “Occitane”.
Louise and David have owned their small Gite complex ‘Lesparrou Retreats and Adventures’ since 2007and have been living there running their adventure business for 2 years. They are completely in love with this hidden gem of France. “The people are friendly, the mountains are unique and we keep finding new special places to explore and have adventures in. As well as mountains there is so much more from lakes and rivers to great markets, restaurants and hot pools.”
For walking and snow shoeing Louise describes the mountains of the Ariege as 4 massifs:
The Barthélemy range:
Accessed from Lavelanet and Tarrascon sur Ariege. These are collectively known as “Montagne de Tabe “including the peaks of Pic de Barthélemy (2348m), Soularac (2365m), Pic de Han (2074m) and Mount Fourcat (2001m). In the winter there are various access points that remain open such as the road up to the ski area of Les Mont D’Olmes, the Montsegur road and from Mercus in the Ariege valley. It is always best to check roads first. Inforoute09 is a great website which gives you information on the roads and if specific equipment is needed or
not.
Vicdessos Valley
This valley of peaks is accessed from the road running from Tarrascon to Vicdessos and beyond (in the summer). There are many great days out in summer and winter in this valley. A firm winter (early spring) favourite is les Trois Seigneurs (2199m). Goulier ski station also gives good winter access to some stunning mountains above the ski area. In the summer Soulcem lake is an excellent starting point for some big summer days such as Pic de la Rouge (2902m) which borders Spain. The lime stone of Pic Rouge de Bassies (2676m) is also a great day out and there are some amazing high lakes (Etangs de Bassies)
for a summer swim on the hot days near the refuge de Bassiers. It would be very easy to spend 2 or 3 days wandering around in this area using the refuge as a base or to do a multi-day expedition. A hut to hut route that Lesparrou Retreats and Adventures can run starts and ends in Auzat and takes in the peaks of Pic Rouge de Bassiers (2676m), Pic de Montcalm (3077m) and Pica D’Estats (3143m) staying in refuge de Bassies, refuge de l’etang du Pinet and the Gite d’etape at Monicou.
The Plateau de Sault
This area is ideal rolling Nordic terrain and when the snow arrives it is easy to spend a week up here in powder with very little avalanche risk and still get up a few sneaky 1500m+ peaks such as Pic Fourcat at 1929m. The views are out of this world and the plateau has a wonderful open feeling of space and light. Perfect for groups and easily accessible from the valley up to Belcaire and then beyond to Camarac (a small downhill ski area), Prades and Chioula (the latter 2 have groomed ski de fond).
The refuge du Chioula has an easy walk in and has a Guardian during the winter and summer. The Chioula end of the plateau can also be accessed from Ax les Thermes, although snow chains for car tyres are often needed in the winter as the road is steep and twisty.
Ax Les Thermes
This large area of mountains around the southern end of the Ariege valley hosts a wide variety of summer and winter explorations. The ski area of “Bonascre ” gives good access
either by gondola from the town of Ax Les Thermes in the winter or by the ski road in the summer and winter. There is also the well know Tour de France bike route up onto the Plateau de Beille which is popular for both ski de fond and snow shoeing and boasts amazing views. If you want to get a bit more off the beaten track, the valley to the west of les Cabannes has a single track road that takes you right into the heart of these mountains where it is possible to do several summer walks taking in peaks such as Pic de Rulhe (2783m). The Rulhe refuge is a great starting point for summer walks in this area. People often walk here from Spain along the high jagged mountain ridges that are typical of this area.
Wildlife
Alongside the usual mountain sightings of marmots, buzzards, mountain hares there is, of course, the brown bears of the Pyrenees. These spectacular beasts are rarely seen and avoid humans. Also increasing numbers of Griffon Vultures can be seen catching the thermals in the summer months.
If you would like to contact Louise, please let us know and we will put you in touch.

