A very different side of Tuscany – Alpi Apuane Mountains by International Mountain Leader Steve Ellis
When you think of Tuscany, your mind may take you to images of endless warm summers, rolling hills and cypress trees reaching to big blue skies. However, in the north of the region bordering the Region of Emilia Romagna lies a very different Tuscany – you still get the warm long summers, but the scenery is dramatically alternate. Guarding the Garfagnana Valley to the south you will find the Alpi Apuane Mountains; a range consisting of rugged peaks, steep sided verdant valleys carved by tumbling streams of snow melt; entwined with forests of chestnuts, porcini and wild boar. Whilst to the north of the valley the Tuscan Emilian Appenines emerge with their broad back high mountains spreading from Genoa to Florence.
What is so great about this area is that within 4 hours of leaving the UK, you can be in the midst of the mountains and ready to embark on amazing adventures. Most major UK airports fly directly into Pisa; from there you can either take the super reliable train service directly into the heart of the Garfagnana to the principal town of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana; or hire a vehicle to take you on the 90-minute journey passing the impressive Ponte della Maddalena (Devil’s Bridge) at Borgo a Mozzano. Certainly, having a vehicle for your stay is advised to get around and make the most out of your time.
There are so many interesting peaks and cols to explore during your adventures, whether you are looking for day walks or multi-day trips your options are endless. If you are interested in indulging in the fabulous local cuisine or, sampling the local vino or grappe, or perhaps following escape routes used by Allied troops during WWII, the Alpi Apuane can deliver on all fronts. Combined with an excellent network of marked trails, there are mountain refuges to extend your journey and create a traverse with excellent views into the valley or out towards the Ligurian coastline.
For those wishing to extend their adventures, you can also undertake via ferrata routes, climbing, canoeing, mountain biking and many other adventurous activities. We have found the staff in the Tourist Office in Castlenuovo to have excellent resources to help you and their knowledge of the area is simply staggering. During your down time you could visit the beautiful walled-city of Lucca, which at only an hour’s train ride or 45 minute road journey is well worth adding to your itinerary. If you want to experience the coast, look no further than the World Heritage site of the Cinque Terre. You can catch the train from the valley and be walking between the villages within 2 hours; and with some of the best fish restaurants you’ll find this side of Padstow…you’ll be left wanting more!
During our trip this summer, we took our group on a fabulous day trek to Monte Ferato and its famed rock arch. From Fornovolasco you take the woodland trail up to the col at Foce di Petrosciana, then following a short scramble you follow the ridge line through the beech trees to the rock arch, from here it’s only a 10 minute ascent to the iron cross on the summit. For an added sense of adventure, walk the roof of the archway! We take all of our groups to this area and, without fail, this walk is one of the highlights to an otherwise amazing stay in the Garfagnana.
Having visited the area many times over the last 10 years, we have found that June to October gives great stable weather, with temperatures in the summer months reaching well into the 30s. Leave it later in the year and you can enjoy all the delights of the chestnut harvest, porcini and wild boar feasts. Some of the best food we have ever tasted has been sourced, prepared and served on the same day during our adventures into the area. A particular favourite restaurant of ours and highly recommended is Il Baretto in Castelnuovo.
There are plenty of places to stay in the valley, we have always stayed at one of the many Agritourisimo and have never been disappointed. Here we enjoy excellent local cuisine, vino and, most importantly, superbly friendly hosts.
If you want to find out more about where we stay, routes, travel options please contact Steve Ellis, Gemini Outdoor – steve@geminioutdoor.com. You will also find loads of photos of our trips on our Facebook page @geminioutdoor and on our website www.geminioutdoor.com
Thank you Steve
